By Louise Nelson (courtesy of the Washington Post)

The scent of rosemary stirs childhood memories and inspires this rustic dish of hunter’s chicken cooked in the style of the southern Roman countryside.

Chicken with rosemary, tomatoes and olives

Serves 4

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
3.5lb chicken, jointed into 8 or 10 pieces (by cutting breast pieces in 2), or 8-10 chicken thighs
2 garlic cloves
3 bushy rosemary sprigs
1 big glass white wine
Salt
14 oz tin (1&3/4 cups) peeled plum tomatoes, chopped with scissors
1 pinch red chili flakes
2 tbsp black olives

(Note: Having browned the chicken, don’t drain away any fat, because it enriches the tomatoes, and tempers the rosemary’s more volatile side, and means the dish has a fat-induced, soft, orange glow).

In a deep sauté pan, warm the oil over a medium heat. Working in batches, lay in the chicken pieces skin side down, cook until the skin forms a golden crust, then turn them over and do the same on the other side. Remove and repeat with the remaining chicken.

Return all the meat to the pan with a pinch of salt, one peeled garlic clove, crushed with the heel of your hand so it splits but stays in one piece) and two rosemary sprigs.

Pour over the wine, leave to bubble for a few minutes, add the tomatoes and chilli, cover and turn the heat down low. Cook for 40 minutes, then remove the lid and cook for a further 10-20 minutes, until the chicken is tender and the sauce rich and thick. If at any point the pan seems a little dry, add a little more wine.

Chop the second clove of garlic and the picked needles from the third sprig of rosemary and add with the olives for the last minutes of cooking, stirring so the flavors blend.

Bon Appetit!