River & Fort Restaurant, Avenida Menendez and Charlotte Street, across from the fort.
By Irene Merenda
Three girl friends and I recently had dinner at the new downtown restaurant, River & Fort, on a weekday evening. It is the sister restaurant to “River & Post” in Jacksonville. Unlike River & Post, River & Fort does not take reservations.
We arrived about 5:30 and were prepared for a wait for our table, as we were warned that the restaurant has been very busy since its’ debut. We waited about 40 minutes, which was fine with us, as we were able to have a pre-dinner cocktail and conversation at the lovely outdoor bar where we made friends with several dogs who were accompanied by their owners. The bar menu is large, with many fancy and interesting drinks and specials, but this evening we chose to share a simple bottle of delicious white wine which was recommended by the friendly bar tender. I can’t remember the name of the wine or the bartender, but both were excellent.
Jeremiah was our server in the dining room, and was attentive and professional. He knew the menu well and answered our many questions with patience and ease. Diners at a nearby table were clearly having a contest to see who could shout and laugh the loudest which made our conversation (quiet and genteel at all times of course) difficult at times.
We began by sharing fried calamari which was served with hot peppers and a spicy arrabbiata sauce. ($13) All agreed that it was excellent.
The Miso-glazed salmon was a good sized portion, served with the skin on. It was cooked medium rare and was accompanied by haricots verts and ginger rice. ($28)
Four large scallops were beautifully browned and served with aged-parmesan risotto, roasted corn, fennel chow chow and asparagus. All was topped with a tomato herb coulis. ($33) Scallops were tender and perfectly seared.
Another friend ordered the hand cut filet of beef. It was served with a tomator-bacon jam, herbed red potatoes, asparagus and bordelaise. ($42) The portion was not large, but was tender and delicious.
I love fresh tuna. However, I hesitate to order it in restaurants because they always serve it nearly raw, even when I ask them to cook it medium-rare. Invariably, I send it back to the kitchen, asking them to cook it “just a teeny-weeny bit more” and again, invariably, it comes back like shoe leather. However, the menu description of the tuna (“Togarashi, ginger rice, cucumber, crisy wontons, soy almonds, sweet soy reduction”) made me want to try ordering it just one more time. I learned that togarashi is a Japanese spice mixture that has a little “kick.” It was cooked exactly the way I prefer it and every bite was scrumptious. I was delighted that I conquered my fear of restaurant tuna and made the leap! ($32)
River & Fort is a wonderful new addition to our growing selection of fine dining restaurants in our old town. This one has beautiful interiors and views of the fort and river from the bar and dining rooms. We all loved our dinners and agreed that we will be back! The restaurant is open seven days a week from 4-10 pm.
Five spoonbills!
UPDATE: After writing up the review for River and Fort, Frank and I decided to go back. I again ordered the tuna, and asked for it “medium rare” hoping for the perfectly cooked dish I had last time. Sadly, I had to return it twice before I finally gave up. Frank ate my “raw” tuna, and I ate his cioppino, which was delicious. For my high expectations, and disappointment, I’m taking away 1/2 a star!
