By Brian & Louise Nelson

It was time. Our last trip north to see family was two years ago. But this trip would be different. We were celebrating our 40^th wedding anniversary and we wanted it to be our time.

So, in late June, after a weekend spent with kin in Montreal, we set off on our adventure heading to Quebec City and its legendary and historic Chateau Frontenac. Celebrating a milestone like this delivers permission slips like nobody’s business, and one of them was to indulge in this expensive Fairmont Hotel. And along the way, enjoy the scenery, cooler temperatures, and delicious cuisine. That last wish came true no sooner than three hours out of Montreal, at a roadside stop for gas and food. Instead of facing the choice of a Quarter Pounder or a Big Mac, we sat down to a Lobster Mac … and Cheese, and garnished with shallots and lemon.

Food (La Cuisine)

“Darling, we aren’t in Kansas anymore”.

Food, or more appropriately, LA CUISINE, sets much of the rhythm of days in Quebec, beginning with le petit dejeuner of French bread and pastries, through to delicious dinners, which for us was usually with fresh seafood.

First, a small detour. Let’s talk about Charlevoix, a region still down the road a ways, to explain why you may choose meat.

Charlevoix is a stretch of hilly countryside squeezed in between Quebec City and the tiny town of Tadoussac further east up the river, which was our furthest destination. And it is known for some breathtaking scenery, but also for … ready? For lamb!

Having left Quebec 40+ years ago, this lamb news came as a complete surprise to us. Think about it. We learned that Charlevoix, up in northeastern Quebec, is where lamb is such a curated specialty that it’s actually classified like a French wine. And priced like a French Champagne. And we had some. So, move over New Zealand and Australia. Make room for Charlevoix lamb. Its taste was worth every penny!

So, now is as good a time as any to get the trip’s food pics out of the way, from the humble Montreal smoked meat sandwich, to Charlevois lamb, to Greek Psarotaverna fish. Quebecers know how to eat. It is a cultural obsession.

Quebec City

Quebec City, the capital of the Canadian province sharing its name, is always a fan favorite. Tourists flock to explore centuries old granite buildings, walk narrow streets and alleys, and enjoy wonderful art work and souvenirs, along with the cooler weather and fine cuisine. The hilly city is a tiny piece of France on North American soil.

The center of cultural life in Quebec is arguably the mammoth Chateau Frontenac hotel. It is a magnet all year long, and especially during the Quebec Carnival in February and Quebec’s national holiday, June 24^th, the festival of St. John Baptiste and la Fete Nationale du Quebec, when the Fleurs de Lys fly everywhere in celebration.

Customarily, the big “fete”, or party occurs the night before, but not this year.

As residents and tourists alike finished up dinners to wander up the hill to the action and fireworks around the Chateau and on the Plains of Abraham, a severe flash thunderstorm rolled in from the nearby Laurentian Mountains. An alert on our phones had us hustling up toward the safety of the hotel, but even the purple and reds of the weather map failed to communicate the storm’s velocity and severity. We didn’t make it. The two of us were stranded at one point in true hurricane gusts, not 200 yards from the hotel. Three young Good Samaritans braved the howling winds and rain to help me assist Louise and her walker up the hill and into the safety of that concrete fortress. We survived, but for a while out there in those hurricane-force gusts, we had our doubts.

St. Anne de Beaupre

Next stop up the St. Lawrence River, St. Anne de Beaupre. You’d probably drive right through the hamlet if you were unaware of its claim to fame. You see, the Roman Catholic Church has been a big political as well as religious force throughout Quebec history, and while that grip has waned, Quebecers generally remain committed to preserving the memory and the buildings of the past. In this small town, 30 kilometers east of Quebec City, sits the stunning Basilica of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, renowned as a Catholic pilgrimage site for those in search of miracles. The basilica boasts architectural beauty, including stunning mosaics, stained glass, and sculptures, and is a place of healing and faith for many.

Baie St. Paul

The next town up the river is Baie St. Paul, a small artsy shoppers paradise, chock full of chic clothing shops, museums, sidewalk restaurants, and yes .. an imposing church. There’s one in every Quebec town.

La Malbaie / Manoir Richelieu

Our next destination was the Manoir Richelieu, another in the Fairmont hotel chain, noted for golf, hiking, skating and snowshoeing and even a casino. Built in 1899 in La Malbaie, Le Manoir was the site of 2018 G7 summit of world leaders. Sitting on a bluff, the imposing hotel oozes history but badly needs room upgrades and laundry facilities. Still, the structure is magnificent and there is great dining (this is Quebec!) and soothing views of the St. Lawrence River, although its seductive magic failed to work on President Donald Trump who famously stormed out of the international pow-wow early.

Tadoussac & Baie St. Catherine

Finally, further up the St. Lawrence, where the waters of the fjord-like Saguenay River join the St. Lawrence’s rush to the Atlantic, lie the sister towns of Tadoussac and Baie St. Catherine. These sentinels to the Saguenay also serve as ecological base camps to showcase and protect the area’s booming population of minke whales, humpback whales, fin whales, beluga whales, and on occasion, blue whales, the largest animals on earth.

The season was just getting started during our visit in early July. We didn’t see a lot, but we caught a few sightings nonetheless.

Montreal

Finally, returning back to Montreal, here is where Quebec’s heart really beats. With English and French as the language currency, a multitude of immigrant communities give this city its international vibe. Uber drivers are often Middle Eastern. Sales clerks are bilingual French Quebecois. Restaurants are whatever cultural whim catches your fancy. The annual Grand Prix de Montreal and International festivals – jazz, comedy, film, etc – run throughout the summer. And Old Montreal, with its historic port and modern additions like a Ferris wheel and the Cirque du Soleil bring together the old and new in this incredibly vibrant city.

Ancestry

Now for you folks who’ve not been to Montreal … traveling is always full of surprises, right? And you never know when you’ll discover part of your family lineage, or maintain so, anyway. Lord Nelson, possibly my late late ancestor, whose fame stretches from Trafalgar Square to Old Montreal’s Place Jacques Cartier. Who knew?

Warning!

A final piece of advice. If you visit Montreal, don’t even think of driving in town. Invest in Uber or a taxi.

Why? Because you’ll soon learn that the most popular street name in Montreal is …. “La rue Barree”.

“Barree”, as in “Closed” for those of you linguistically challenged.

And why are they closed?

Well, because there’s another saying about this city. It goes like this:

“There are two seasons in Montreal.

WINTER …

And ROAD REPAIR!!

Voila! Welcome to what everyone else calls “summer”.